Grilled Fish, Romagna Style

2.5 to 3 lb. whole fish, gutted and scaled OR fish steaks
A small sprig of fresh rosemary OR .5 teaspoon dried leaves chopped very fine
.33 cup fine, dry, unflavored bread crumbs
.25 cup extra virgin olive oil
2 tbsp freshly squeezed lemon juice
Salt
Freshly ground black pepper
Optional: a charcoal or wood-burning grill
Optional: a small branch of fresh bay leaves or several dried leaves

1. Wash the fish or fish steaks in cold water, then pat thoroughly dry with paper towels.
2. Sprinkle the fish liberally with salt and pepper on both sides, put it on a large platter, and add the olive oil, lemmon juice, and rosemary. Turn the fish over two or three times to coat it well.
3. Add the bread crumbs, turning the fish once or twice again until it has an even coating of oil-soaked bread crumbs.
4. Marinate for 1 or 2 hrs at room temperature, turning and basting the fish from time to time.
5. If using charcoal or wood, light the charcoal in time for it to form white ash before cooking, or the wood long enough in advance to reduce it to hot embers. If using an indoor gas or electric grill, preheat it at aleast 15 min. before you are ready to cook.
6. Place the fish 4 or 5 in. from the source of heat. Do not discard its marinade. If cooking on charcoal or with wood, throw the bay leaves into the fire; otherwise omit. Grill on both sides until done, turning the fish once. Depending on the thickness of the fish steaks or the size of the whole fish, it may take between 5 and 15 min. While cooking, baste the top with the marinade. Serve piping hot from the grill.